Remember to Treat for Fire Ants This Fall
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Red imported fire ant worker. Photo by Dr. Bart Drees, professor and Extension entomologist, Texas A&M University.
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Even though we have been experiencing high temperatures, fire ants are unfortunately still in the area. They can live deep within the soil, so their mounds may not always be visible. Since fire ants are a medically important insect pest, control measures should be taken in some cases to decrease their populations.
Before treating for fire ants, one must first survey the area to determine the number of mounds, if possible. If fewer than five mounds are present in a quarter-acre plot, then it is advised to treat the individual mounds.
If more than five mounds are present, then treatment should be broadcast over the entire area. A fire ant bait or contact insecticide may be used. Fire ant baits are made up of defatted corn grit covered with insecticide and soybean oil. Before broadcasting the fire ant bait, evaluate foraging activity by placing a potato chip or hot dog next to the mound. If fire ants find the chip or hot dog within 15 minutes, then it is an appropriate time to broadcast the fire ant bait. Typically, fire ants will actively forage when the soil surface temperature is between 70 and 90 F. Appropriate foraging activity ensures that the delivery of fire ant baits into the colony is so effective that the amount of insecticide remaining in an area is significantly reduced.
Fire ant baits should never be watered into the soil, and they should not be used if they smell rancid. Contact insecticides can also be broadcast over the entire area, and these need to be watered into the soil. One contact insecticide containing fipronil will usually provide control for 9 to 12 months.
Both fire ant baits and contact insecticides can be broadcast using a hand-held spreader for small areas. A Herd seeder can be mounted onto a truck or ATV for larger areas.
Before applying any type of pesticide, always be sure to read and follow the instructions on the pesticide label. Never use harmful toxins, such as gasoline, to control fire ants. These products are illegal and dangerous. In order to avoid unnecessary entrance into the water supply, never leave insecticide baits on streets or walkways after application.
For more information, please visit the fire ant webpage at http://fireant.tamu.edu.
Growing Number of Grasshoppers
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Differential grasshopper, Melanoplus differentialis (Thomas) (Orthoptera: Acrididae). Photo by Dr. Bart Drees, professor and Extension entomologist, Texas A&M University.
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As we walk outdoors in late summer, we might be overwhelmed by the number of grasshoppers. This is usually due to warm, dry autumns followed by hot, dry summers, conditions that favor grasshopper survival and reproduction. Grasshoppers develop through simple metamorphosis with an egg, nymph and adult stage. The female grasshopper uses its long ovipositor to deposit eggs ½ to 2 inches into the soil in the fall. These eggs are deposited in such areas as weedy places, fence rows, and ditches. The eggs hatch into nymphs in the spring or early summer, depending upon species. The nymphal stage lasts for around six weeks before the grasshoppers molt into adults with fully developed wings. The adult grasshoppers will persist until late fall or until a frost occurs.
Grasshoppers feed mainly on weeds. However when the weeds begin to dry, the grasshoppers will go into other areas in search of food. This search may lead them to the plants in your landscape.
Non-Chemical Control Options
• Controlling weeds will decrease the number of grasshoppers in an area. If weeds are eliminated, nymphs will starve and adults will be discouraged from laying eggs in the area.
• Tilling the soil in the late summer will discourage female grasshoppers from depositing eggs, since they like to lay eggs in undisturbed soil.
• Floating row covers can be used to protect such areas as vegetable and flower gardens, and small fruit trees from grasshoppers. The fabric allows sunlight through, while protecting plants from insects and cold weather.
Chemical Control Options
Monitor grasshopper infestations and treat when grasshoppers are in the nymphal stage. The immature grasshoppers are more susceptible to insecticides. Some effective insecticides include the active ingredients diflubenzuron, cyfluthrin, bifenthrin, acephate and permethrin. Baits such as those containing carbaryl may also be applied.
Insecticides typically do not persist in the environment more than a few days. This means grasshoppers may soon re-invade.
About the author: Kimberly Schofield is a program specialist in the field of urban integrated pest management at the Texas A&M Research Center in Dallas.
Mention of commercial products is for educational purposes only and does not represent endorsement by Texas AgriLife Extension or The Texas A&M University System. Insecticide label registrations are subject to change, and changes may have occurred since this article was written. The pesticide user is always responsible for applying products in accordance with label directions. Always read and carefully follow the instructions on the container label.
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