Plant: Cool-season grasses early in month, including ryegrass either for temporary turf or overseeding of warm-season grass, and (Northwest Texas) fescue for permanent turf. New landscape shrubs and trees anytime this month. Planted now, they'll have half a year to get new roots established before summer. Dig and divide established clumps of spring- and summer-flowering perennials early in month. Daffodils and their kin as soon as you buy them. Small- and early-flowering types have the best chance of repeating year after year. Tulips and hyacinths must be refrigerated at least 45 days at 45 degrees prior to planting (plant no earlier than mid-December). Pansies once temperatures have begun to fall -- in early October in North Texas, mid-October in Central and South Texas. Include pinks, snapdragons, flowering cabbage and flowering kale as well.

Prune: Remove dead leaves, flower stalks and seed heads from perennial plantings. Keep mowing turf at recommended heights right up to first freeze. Remove dead and damaged limbs from trees while you can distinguish them from healthy growth. Reshape tropical plants before you bring them indoors for the winter.

Fertilize: Bermuda, St. Augustine lawns for final time of the season. First feedings of cool-season grasses rye and fescue should be made very early in month. Get pansies, other annuals off to quick start with water-soluble, high-nitrogen food every few days after planting. Cut way back on fertilizer applied to plants you'll be bringing indoors for the winter.

On The Lookout: Watch St. Augustine for brown patch (dead leaves pull loose easily from runners). Control with turf fungicide, and water only in early morning hours. Apply glyphosate-type weedkiller early this month to eliminate established grass and weeds prior to rototilling where you'll be starting new beds. Watch patio plants for insect, mite and disease problems. Treat as needed before bringing them indoors.